Modifying Kustom Tube 12A for Enhanced Tone and Overdrive

I adquired recently a second-hand Kustom Tube 12A little combo, very cheap. This is a hybrid solid state / tube amplifier, with a 12AX7 tube in the preamplifier section. It has two modes, clean and gain. In the clean mode, the two sections of the tube are pushed not too hard, so they do not compress too much and the sound is very clean. It has a gain potentiomenter that acts only in the gain mode. In this “gain” mode, the tube is pushed harder, but there are a quartet of clipping diodes between the two sections of the tube that distort the sound in a solid state style (hard clipping).

It has a “shift” button that does a noticeable change in the tone, perceived as a mid range boost (in fact it is a shift in the scoop frequency).

Out of the box, its volume and tone are surprisingly good for its size and price. I am almost sure that this amplifier is the same as the Bugera BC15, announced as 15W, while the Kustom is announced as 12W. The features are almost the same, although the Kustom has some additional speaker and line outputs. The declared power difference makes me wonder if they are really the same thing, maybe the circuit is slightly different, but I would try the mods I propose here on the Bugera.

Why modding it? There are one thing that annoyed me from the first minute. If you want a really compressed and overdriven sound, but no too distorted, you have to push the gain button and turn the gain potentiometer, but then the clipping diodes start working and distort the sound. There is no overdriven but not distorted sound, something in between, coming only from the tube. You can see here the schematic (clipping diodes were wrong in the original):

When you push the gain switch, the first stage of the operational amplifier is controlled by the gain potentiometer, allowing to increase the gain of the circuit. That potentiomenter acts as a gain and volumen control for that stage at the same time. The gain switch also shorts R15 resistor, making the clipping diodes and R14 go to ground and start clipping the signal.

Making the gain potentiometer work without hard clipping

The first thing to do is shorting the first part of the gain switch to ground, so the gain potentiometer is always working, even if the clipping diodes are not connected to ground. I did this as you can see in this picture:

Pin 2 of the gain potentiometer is connected to a ground pin visible in the input jack. The effect is the same as if you connect the section one of the gain switch.

Controlling the clipping section

I replaced also the clipping diodes with led diodes, to get a higher clipping voltage and more control over the distortion, by trying different colors. Since the diodes are coupled in pairs, you can put a led diode for every two diodes, getting a similar but slightly different effect for the ear. Using different led colors you can get different voltages. One red diode has almost the same Vf as two signal diodes, but the sound is not the same, because they do not clip in the same way. Trying different diodes is very satisfying. I made all the modifications by using component sockets, making it easier to test different values and diode types.

Enhancing the tone

The first thing I perceived after doing this first modifications was that with the gain switch off, the tone was too dark, even with the “shift” button pressed. So, after some LTSpice simulation and testing, I modified the tone section, changing C11, C12 and C13.

More gain, please

Another thing I noticed was that the overall gain was helping not too much for getting a really compressed sound with the gain switch off. I did not like the range I got from turning the gain potentiometer. I tried different values for R4 resistor (feedback resistor), which together with the gain potentiometer, controls the gain of the first opamp stage. Raising its value, you get more gain (basic opamp theory).

All mods in one place

In summary, I made this modifications:

componentoriginal valuemodded value
gain switchsection 1 open with switch upsection 1 closed (see above)
D31N4148red led
D41N4148closed
D51N4148red led
D61N4148closed
C1115nF100nF
C1239nF100nF
C13270pF100pF
R4220K470K

Conclusions

After this changes, the amplifier behaves more like a tube amplifier with two channels, controlled by the “gain”switch. The mid scoop is shifted to higher frequencies, making it more mid range focused and the high frequencies are more pronounced. With the gain switch off, turning the gain potentiometer, the sound goes from clean to tube overdriven, and with the gain switch on, you get all the range from overdriven to distorted/fuzzy.

For its size and price, altough it does not sound like a 12W tube amplifier, it does the job for home practice and gigging in little venues (still to try). It did before the mods, but now it is much more usable for my taste.

13 thoughts on “Modifying Kustom Tube 12A for Enhanced Tone and Overdrive”

  1. WordPress does not allow me to upload asc files for LTSpice. Try to copy the lines below to an empty .asc file:

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  2. Ok, there is a mistake in the text above, when it says:
    OpAmpsUniversalOpAmp2
    It should say:
    OpAmps\UniversalOpAmp2

    WordPress has eaten “” characters when pasting the text, sorry for the inconvenience.

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  3. Greetings , I also have this amp and have the same thoughts on the sound. Ok sounding with a Les Paul but not so great with a Strat. I have simulated the pre-amp as well and was surprised at the amount of roll off. I went ahead and changes some values but feel I need to adjust tone some more so I will try your mods as you have described. Wondering what your reasons were for changing the op amp?

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    1. Replacing the op amp in the simulation? I simply did not find the right one, and op amps don’t change too much. Tolerance of components contribute much more to the differences between a simulation and the real thing.

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